• Marina Moscone RTW Fall 2019

    8 days ago - By WWD

    Marina Moscone loves the storytelling journey of design from start to finish. Watching everything come together, whether it's hand tie-dying the lace inlays of easy, sexy slips in her studio or the setting for her first true runway format at the Rare Book Room at the Strand bookstore, is more special to her than the end result. However, her end result was a truly divine collection of texture and fluidity.
    Moscone likened the idea into repurposing for fall. She took moving blankets and rendered them into tactile topcoats and exploded coin purses (a second version was made from mink fur...
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  • Deveaux RTW Fall 2019

    8 days ago - By WWD

    “It sounds broad, but the idea of love and being loved,” said Deveaux creative director Tommy Ton, when asked to share his inspiration for the season backstage. The well-known street-style-photographer-turned-creative-director was brought on by the brand - founded by Andrea Tsao and Matthew Breen - about year ago and launched its first women's collection in spring. Tsao divulged they were experimenting with a new presentation style that would reveal more.
    The mystery was solved as a mix of editors, buyers and street style all-stars gathered around a sunlit raw space and Henri Scars Struck...
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  • Zac Zac Posen RTW Fall 2019

    8 days ago - By WWD

    Zac Posen's philosophy for his secondary line was simple and direct: focus on evening attire at affordable prices that could easily sit with his main line. He's found a sweet spot in offering youthful takes on eveningwear that works for a number of occasions.
    “I had a moment this weekend when I was alone here working on Met Gala stuff and Oscars stuff, this collection happened to be on racks with our main collection and they flowed really well, and I really had that moment where I was like, we could totally just integrate this,” he mused during the look book shoot.
    There was variety in his...
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  • M Missoni RTW Fall 2019

    8 days ago - By WWD

    Warm and cozy was the mood at M Missoni, where the lineup was inspired by a free-spirited girl immersed in the intriguing magic of a North American forest.
    The great outdoor feel was enhanced by the rich textures of the covetable knits, ranging from belted maxi cardigans with Baja stripes to sweaters decorated with revisited Fair Isle designs. Crochet details gave an artisanal touch to the knitted tunic dresses, while the rich outerwear was a charming combination of tweed, knitted inserts and eco-shearling.
    Thick corduroy was introduced for shirts with a utilitarian vibe, wide-leg mannish...
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  • Rebecca Taylor RTW Fall 2019

    8 days ago - By WWD

    Relocating to Paris last year has given Rebecca Taylor a new perspective on fashion. She's worked in the industry since she was 26, chugging along at an unrelenting pace, and realized she was closed off to new ideas and inspirations. “It's weird how quickly you can adjust your reality,” she said on a call from abroad. “It's a real reminder there's actually a big world out here and a lot of women who want to wear special, amazingly crafted clothes but don't necessarily have a thousand places to wear them.”
    She hasn't produced any less than normal, but she's now had space and renewal to...
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  • Opening Ceremony RTW Fall 2019

    8 days ago - By WWD

    Instead of doing a runway show, Opening Ceremony, which hosted a party on Sunday night to fete the Chinese New Year, presented its fall collection at one-on-one appointments at the brand's showroom.
    “This season we decided to shoot the looks on unique personalities, friends from different fields who belong to our community and who represent the different parts of Asia,” explained Opening Ceremony co-creative director Humberto Leon. For example, fashion designer Anna Sui, playwright David Henry Hwang, food writer Priya Krishna, as well as actors Waris Ahluwalia and Greta Lee, were among...
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  • Dion Lee RTW Fall 2019

    8 days ago - By WWD

    Classical and baroque, modern and archetypal. Dion Lee evolved on ways to conceal and reveal through inventive tailoring that treated corsetry as lingerie or a mere extension of support.
    Lee has played with similar ideas of blended construction in the past - see the built-in bras from last fall, or the sensual hints of boudoir lace in spring - which lead to a more seamless and subtle blend for fall where the contrast wasn't so apparent. It fueled half his collection, ranging structured and strong when interlocked with blazers, to romantic and delicate when woven with lace or into twisted...
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  • Sies Marjan RTW Fall 2019

    9 days ago - By WWD

    Sander Lak is in love. With whom - not your business, thank you. But being in love informed his fall collection that concluded an unintentional trilogy began a year ago with fall 2018. That collection was about loss and, last spring, about family, Lak said backstage before his show. This collection is “really about love and falling in love.”
    A show cynic might be forgiven the assumption of an appealing yet empty backstage soundbite, but Lak delivered. He thought about “what love does and how you react to it and how you see yourself doing things you never thought you would be doing,” and...
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